During my explorations in the south of France, I’ll often ask locals for their recommendations on villages and towns to visit in the hopes of discovering a gem that I might not yet know. In the Languedoc, a common recommendation is the village of Marseillan on the north-west side of the Etang de Thau. One of the oldest villages in France, Marseillan actually has two pretty distinct parts, the old village of Marseillan and it’s port on the Etang, and it’s beachside sister Marseillan Plage on the Mediterranean.

We have now spent a good bit of time and have really come to love this small, but lively village. With it’s close proximity (and easy train access) to Montpellier and the Montpellier airport, it’s historic character, beautiful nature along the Etang or in the vines, it’s beautifully restored port, weekly market and year-round vibrancy, it has a charm that grows stronger the longer you stay. For us, the fact that a growing population of residents includes retirees from the north of France, the UK and other northern European countries, has made it possible to meet a community of open-minded people, sun-seekers looking to live a socially active life by the Mediterranean. Well worth a stop for a few days, if that’s all you have, as it’s location is quite central for a short exploration of the Languedoc…though longer stays are highly recommended!

Some recent, and recommended, experiences…

Tuesday Market - For a small village, the weekly farmer’s market in Marseillan is quite robust. It’s the kind of “provencale” market that I like because it has not only produce and other foodstuffs, but also clothing, housewares and local crafts. Every Tuesday, year round, throughout the center of town.

Petanque - The typical french game of boules, similar to italian bocce, this game is very social and quite addictive. Head over to the Allées Roques on a Sunday afternoon to observe the game in action, or brush up on the rules online, bring a set of balls, and give it a try!

Oysters - The Etang de Thau produces about 10% of the oysters in France, in what are known as “parc à huitres”, oyster parks. Both Marseillan and it’s neighbor on the Etang, Bouzigues, are known for their oyster production and all along the northern shore of the etang you will find many rustic restaurants serving freshly farmed oysters and other fruits of the sea. Not to be missed for oyster lovers. It is also possible to take a boat trip on the etang to view and learn about the oyster parks and the farming process.

Maison Noilly Prat - The lovely Noilly Prat vermouth is produced right in the center of Marseillan. Visit the Maison to learn the history, tour the manufacturing facility, and enjoy tastings of the various offerings which include red, white and ambre. The latter a locals favorite and only sold in France.

Canal du Midi - Les Onglous lighthouse on the Etang de Thau in Marseillan, marks the eastern end of the Canal du Midi. This makes Marseillan the perfect starting point for a walk or bike ride along the Canal. By foot or bike you can go a short while and view the first few locks that allow boats to traverse the differences in altitude along the canal. If biking, you might continue on to Beziers and the beautiful 9 Ecluses (Locks) de Fonseranes, well worth a visit by bike or not. Or ride all the way to Toulouse over several days stopping along the way at inns or AirBnBs. E-bikes recommended.

Also worth a visit :

Bagnas Reserve - A beautiful nature preserve for bird-watching, and maybe you’ll see my favorites the Flamants Roses (Pink Flamingos). https://en.marseillan-tourisme.com/la-reserve-naturelle-du-bagnas.html

Chateau Laurens - I loved my visit to this beautiful, quirky, somewhat mystical chateau. Built at the turn of the last century by Emmanuel Laurens, who along with his collection of artist and artisan friends, used his inherited wealth and love of travel, Art Deco, and new inventions to create this highly imaginative villa. It’s technically in Agde, the town adjacent to Marseillan, which is famous for its nudist beach and colony in the Cap D’Agde. Another post on that at a later time! https://www.chateaulaurens-agde.fr/produits?lang=fr#section-chateau English tours several times a month.

Where to Stay…

Luxe - Domaine de Tarbouriech - The Tarbouriech family is a leading oyster farming family on the Etang de Thau. Being a lagoon, the etang doesn’t have tides to raise the growing oysters up and down. Tarbouriech invented a patented system called Solar tides which makes it possible to reproduce the phenomenon of lunar tides in a lagoon. In addition to oyster farming, their enterprises include several oyster tasting restaurants and the Domaine de Tarbouriech, a charming hotel with excellent restaurant and spa. Highly recommended. www.domaine-tarbouriech.fr

And, a few restaurant recommendations…

Delicatessen - Funky and fun local favorite for good burger, oysters and plats du jour.

Oizillon - Delicious food, creatively inspired and beautifully plated. The chef owner and his partner hostess, offer a memorable meal at one of the dozen or so bar seats in this intimate restaurant. It’s fun to chat with chef while watching him artfully prepare each plate.

Chez Tintin - In season, walk along the Etang de Thau to oyster bar and restaurant, the first you will come to leaving the port of Marseillan. I don’t eat oysters, but I’ve take people here who thought it was great. You sit out back on the patio and watch the oyster farmers bringing in their haul.

Le Deux M - Another locales favorite for classic french fare. Be sure to make a reservation.