We found a French secret in this seaside town, steeped in authenticity. Surrounded by the Mediterranean Sea and the Etang de Thau (a lagoon or saltwater lake), sits this unique village of art, music, history and oysters.

For the past three years, every since the world started to open again post-Covid, I’ve spent many months wandering in the south of France. At this point it’s been close to 15 months over 6 different visits (more about that in another post). After my first trip exploring Provence and the Cote d’Azur, I found my way to the Languedoc and fell in love. With all the beauty of the mediterranean, better beaches (if wide sand beaches are your thing), historic villages to explore, and abundant vineyards, the area also offers fewer crowds and tourists (though the summer is very lively) and more french people living their lives. And I’ve spent the better part of a year combing this region, from Montpellier to Carcassonne, Perpignan, Ceret, Collioure, Lagrasse, Gruissan, Narbonne, Pezenas, Capestang, the Corbieres, Nimes, Marseillan, to name a few of its many beautiful towns and villages. But one town that has captured our hearts is the town of Séte (pronounced “set”). It’s called the Venice of the South of France because of its canals that weave through the center of town, but when you are in Séte, there is water everywhere you look. The sea, the etang (french for lagoon), the canals, all give it the feeling of being on an island, though technically it is not.

It’s known as an artists village, with several museums and many galleries. But most interesting is the street art, which the town helps to curate with an event each summer where artists are invited to paint a mural on the side of one of the many quite old buildings in the town. The murals remain and make a walk around the town like visiting an open air museum. Music is also plentiful, with a seaside Theatre de Mer for open air concerts in an old castle in front of the sea. The town also hosts a Jazz Festival each summer. Then there are the beaches, 12 kilometers of beautiful sand beaches, much of it natural and allowing for uncrowded bathing experiences even in the heat of summer. And then there are the oysters, mussels, tuna and other fruits of the sea. The Etang de Thau is the second largest provider of oysters (huitres in French) in France, and seeing the Park of Oysters where they grow is quite interesting. It doesn’t get much fresher than visiting a waterside restaurant in Bouzigues, Marseillan or Meze to sample the fruits of their labors.

Some recent, and recommended, experiences…

Climbing Mont Saint Clair - in the center of Sète, and looming over it, is Mont Saint Clair. You can’t miss it. We love to walk up to the top, either to the Forêt de Pierres Blanches (forest of white stones) or to the Panoramique (with an amazing outlook and sweet chapel). It’s quite a steep climb, and there are several routes up, though all quite steep but well worth it. At the top, you’re rewarded with a great feeling of accomplishment and fantastic views. Make your way to restaurant La Mesa in the forest, and you’ll also be rewarded with a meal, a cappuccino, or an ice cream. In what I can tell you is one of the most peaceful settings you can imagine!

Biking the Lido - rent a bike and enjoy some easy, mostly flat, biking for kilometers. We biked from the Villeroy area in Sète to Marseillan Beach and enjoyed the changing scenes along the path. Beach, dunes, port and cozy beach town, all beautiful!

Concert at the Theatre de Mer - who doesn’t enjoy watching music in an outdoor venue facing the sea? Add in that that venue is an old castle and it really doesn’t really matter who’s on the bill. Highly recommended experience.

Musee Paul Valery - an excellent art museum also overlooking the sea! A terrific permanent collection and special exhibitions, we saw one of the French artist Jean Hugo, a grandson of Victor, and a lovely garden restaurant. And just across the street is a huge cemetery where many local notables are buried facing the sea, also worth a stroll through.

The Etang de Thau - head to the Plage des Mouettes and park your car or bicycle there. Then walk along the etang heading NE and if the water is calm, wander in for a swim. It’s very shallow so you can walk a long way out and still be standing in this mineral-rich, salt water. Or book yourself into one of the Villas Perles de Thau (see below) and take in the stunning view all day long.

A visit to le Halle - a daily indoor market, mornings till 1pm in the center of town. It features some excellent stalls for Italian specialties (gluten-free gnocchi a personal favorite), cheeses (brie with truffles, another favorite), fruits and vegetables, etc. There are also restaurant stalls for a quick lunch and on Wednesdays, the weekly local market takes over the streets surrounding Le Halle.

Hop the train - for a quick train ride to Montpellier (20-30 minutes) or Nimes (45 minutes). Spend a little extra for the TGV trains and enjoy the scenery from the upper level.

A day, afternoon or evening at a Paillote - paillotes are wonderful beach “shacks” that typically included a bar, restaurant and beach bed/umbrella rentals. It seems they are made possible along the Mediterranean coast because of its very minor (non-existent?) tides. They are usually only allowed on the beaches from late April till early October. And they are wonderful, particularly those I’ve encountered in Sète where there are nearly a dozen along the lido beach. Go for an aperitif, dinner or a lazy day in comfort on the beach. La Ola is highly recommended by locals and in the summer months often hosts music events.

Where to Stay…

Luxe - Villas les Perles de Thau - two absolutely wonderful rental homes in the Barrou section of Sète facing the etang as mentioned above. Modern, impeccably clean, simple and beautiful decoration, huge terraces, each with its own hot tub, quiet and well equipped, but did I mention the view? Wake up each morning and watch the water, birds, boats from your bed. It doesn’t get better than this. And the owners, Stephanie and Michel, are top!! Delightful, responsive, full of great advice and just wonderful people. If it’s available and your budget allows, don’t hesitate! www.villaslesperlesdethau.com

A few steps to the Beach - the Villas of Locasete - several rental villas in the Villeroy section adjacent to the beach. The Villeroy on the other side of town offers easy access by foot or bike to the promenade that runs for miles along the beach, the beach itself and it’s paillotes. The company Locasete offers a number of newer rental homes, most with pools and all with bikes included. Sylvie and family, the owners, do a nice job of providing clean, well-equipped accommodations for a great beachside experience. www.locasete.com

Hotels - There are not many hotels in Sète, and we haven’t tried any of them, but a few that look nice include The Hotel de Paris, The Grand Hotel, both in the center of town, and La Singuliere at the top of Mont St. Clair.

And, a few restaurant recommendations…

La Galinette- fish and shellfish in a cozy setting next to the Etang. Family hosted for over 40 years.

La Senne - high-end restaurant specializing in fish from the docks, with a pretty garden and an award-winning sushi chef.

l’Essential - a locals favorite on the promenade by the lido beach and open year round. A great spot for people watching and a refreshment after a bike ride.

La Ola - an excellent paliotte for an aperitif and snacks with your feet in the sand. Also, great beach beds (transats in French) for an afternoon in the sun at very reasonable rates.

Créperie la Fabrique- excellent galettes (buckwheat crepes prepared with savory fillings) and classic dessert crepes. Among my top-rated for galettes in all of France!

Le Coquerie - gets rave reviews for it’s gastronomic cuisine and lovely views.