Montpellier, France
France’s 7th largest city, 3rd largest on the mediterranean coast, and the country’s fastest growing city for the past 25 years, it’s well worth a visit and stay awhile if you can!
I spent a month there in September of 2022 at the language school LSF, intent on improving my French. Wow, what a crazy experience, and while sitting in class for 4+ hours a day was brutal, it really did help me improve my skills and confidence. And it gave me lots of time to explore this fabulous city, often overlooked and not to be missed. It’s home to the oldest college of medicine in Europe founded roughly around 1100 and still very much active. Their Jardin des Plantes is magnificent, as are the Promenade du Peyrou and the Cathedral St. Pierre to name a few of the sights. The city is deeply historic and easily walkable and I recommend days spent leisurely exploring it’s main attractions, plentiful cafes and restaurants and quaint neighborhoods to uncover its many charms and wonders.
A Few Highlights…
Musee Fabre - exceptional art museum. Don’t miss the gallery dedicated to Pierre Soulages. A famous french painter who died in 2022 at the age of 102, and was a long time resident of Séte, another of my favorite french cities and the topic of a future post!
Promenade du Peyrou - Just past Montpellier’s own Arc de Triomphe, is this lovely park centered around a large statue of Louis XIV on horseback. Try to get there around sunset for the gorgeous colors that descend on the park.
Place Canorgue - Home of the hotel Richer de Belleval and an amazing statue of 2 unicorns. My favorite spot for a coffee (Napoleon Dynamite cafe), a drink or a meal at one of several good bars and restaurants, a quiet moment under the trees, or treat yourself to a few days of magic at the Hotel Richer de Belleval https://www.hotel-richerdebelleval.com/ (see below for more information).
Rue de L’Ancien Courrier - This unique, cobbled street and its many offshoot alleys offers one of the most fun shopping areas in the city. The street itself is a work of art and once you’ve explored it’s many unique boutiques, keep branching out to the adjacent streets of this quartier to discover artists at work, outdoor cafes and a plethora of excellent shops.
Marche du Lez - Walking along the banks of the Lez, a highly recommended promenade, you’ll come to the Marche du Lez about a half mile down from the Hotel de Ville and the Courtyard Montpellier (see below). Primarily a compilation of food stalls and restaurants, both indoor and outdoor, the marche also includes a few shops and outdoor vendors, petanque courts and a kids bike track. I really enjoyed long strolls along the beautiful pathway which runs all along the Lez, followed by a cappuccino, drinks and/or dinner at the Marche. One evening included champagne from a champagne and shellfish bar, accompanied by great burgers and fries from a neighboring stall.
Beaches - There are many options for great beaching within 20-30 minutes of Montpellier. I’ll likely go more in-depth on this in a future post, but here are a few highlights. If you’re looking for exercise, rent a bicycle and bike along the Lez all the way to Palavas-les-Flots, roughly 12 km each way. For a luxe experience, find your way to the Plage Palace Hotel in Palavas, and rent a sunbed (transat in french). You can enjoy lunch and drinks in a pampered setting. And my favorite is the Plage Villeneuve-les-Maguelone. Walk down the beach until you are nearby to the Cathedral of Maguelone and feel free to indulge in the classically french plage naturiste experience (just drop it all)! Then put your clothes back on and walk over to explore the beautiful and historic Cathedral, or check ahead for their concert schedule and enjoy the magic of classical music in a cavernous cathedral.
Where to Stay…
Luxe: Hotel Richer de Belleval - Originally the home of the Richer de Belleval, one of the founders of the Jardin des Plantes, the hotel has been beautifully restored, keeping its historical character and infusing that with some wonderful modern art. A visit to their Michelin starred restaurant is an experience, not least for the privilege of dining under the splendor of the original art uncovered on it’s ceiling during restoration. And the staff there is exceptional. I was fortunate to spend a couple of weeks there during my time at French school, and I felt like an adult version of Eloise at the Plaza with some of the staff helping me with my homework each evening! https://www.hotel-richerdebelleval.com/
Budget Friendly: Mas de Lafeuillade - A lovely option within an easy 15-20 minute walk to the historic center of Montpellier. A beautifully restored farmhouse in the heart of it’s own park-like setting, offering large, art-filled rooms, an excellent restaurant and a quiet, peaceful setting close to everything you’ll want to explore. Antoine, the proprietor is a delight and will add his humor to enhance your stay. Be sure to book ahead as the 5 rooms book up early. https://www. mas-de-lafeuillade.com
Points Friendly: Courtyard Montpellier - If US Hotel chain points are your passion, don’t hesitate this Marriott property on the banks of the river Lez. In a quiet location, with nice facilities (restaurant, pool, gym, parking), a friendly, English speaking staff, easy access to all parts of the city and with some great restaurant options nearby. I’m usually not a fan of the big US chains in Europe, but this property is a fine option.
And, a few restaurant recommendations…
Le Petit Jardin - Bistronomique restaurant in the Ecusson (historic district), with a beautiful garden setting. www.petit-jardin.com
L’Arbre Blanc - A wonderful bar at the top of an award-winning piece of modern architecture, go for the views, nice cocktails and to admire the building itself. The restaurant on the street level terrace is also worth a try. www.larbreblanc.net
Joy Healthyfood - Breakfast, lunch, brunch and yoga. You’ll find it all here at this vegan, entirely gluten-free restaurant. www.joy-yoga-healthyfood.fr/
Napoleon Dynamite - Not only do I love that movie, but I loved finding this cafe by the same name in my favorite Place Canorgue. Breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea/coffee, the perfect spot to sit and chill. https://groupe-tandem.fr/napoleon-dynamite-coffee-shop-montpellier/
Chez Cece - Oddly, salads are not common on lunchtime menus in France. So this salad cafe was an amazing find. Tiny is an understatement. In fact, most of the tables are in the street and if there are none to be had, opt for take-out. Just writing this I am craving one of their salads! www.chezceci.com
